Ask The Money Coach

Posts Tagged ‘credit’

I owe more than my house is worth and I have bad credit. What should I do?

Q: I am a Single Woman Sharing a Mortgage with my Mother. I Purchased the House From her in 2004 to Prevent Her from Filing Bankruptcy and Losing her Home. We’ve Refinanced Twice and Now the Loan is Twice the Amount of What the House is Worth. My Credit is Not Great. I’m in Debt Minus the Loan on the House of About $15,000. The Bulk of That is a $10,000 Loan I Applied for an got (Surprisingly) While I was Unemployed. Isn’t That Called Predatory Lending. I Would Love to Leave Here and Find My Own Place But I Need to Get My Credit in Order. Some of My Debts are 5 Years Old. I Don’t Want to Pay These If I Really Shouldn’t. What’s the Best Thing to do? Also, Re: the $10,000 Loan, I Know I Should Not Have Applied for the Money But I was Desperate As Our Mortgage Was 3 Months In Arrears and In Danger of Being Foreclosed On. Is There a Way That I Could Get This Debt Removed as it was a Predatory Situation?

A: It sounds like you and your mother can not only not afford your home, but the house itself is also severely underwater. I understand your desire to improve your credit and get your own place, but honestly, you must fix problems A, B, and C before you can move on to issues D and E. In this case, problems A, B and C are: getting realistic about your financial past and present, learning how to create and live with a budget, and dealing with your home dilemma. Until you first do those things, you won’t be able to pay off your debts (issue D) or improve your credit (issue E). Without tackling first things first, you’ll also put yourself at risk of losing another home simply because you’ve neglected to learn certain financial lessons.

So let’s start with the first thing: a reality check. You seem to have attempted to throw your mother a lifeline, only to wind up nearly drowning yourself. Your email said you bought the home from her back in 2004 to help her avert bankruptcy and foreclosure. Despite your best intentions, you also stated that you and her wound up 3 months behind on the mortgage and in danger of being foreclosed upon anyway. That’s what led you to seek out the $10,000 loan you’re not saddled with. What happened to during the time of your unemployment? Your message indicated that you were twice laid off and that you “made some not so smart money decisions?” Whatever those decisions were, you have to truly acknowledge them, and make sure that you don’t repeat them.

It sounds to me as if you had your mother have been stuck in a cycle of making repetitive bad decisions. I hope you don’t think I’m being too harsh on you. Because I’m telling you these things honestly out of care and concern for your situation. I can sense your struggle and I know it’s very hard to be in such a tough predicament. I’m just giving you a bit of “tough love,” however, because I’ve seen cases like this time and time again. The only way people get out of these dilemmas is by actively breaking the cycle and ending the behavior that landed them in hot water.

Now let’s move on to the second issue: having a proper budget. Unfortunately, most of us grow up never having learned to create a realistic budget. This is likely true of your mother, and it’s probably true for you as well. Read this article I’ve written on budgeting and this post too, to get some ideas on how to budget to better manage your finances. Additionally, read this post about budgeting and financial planning when you go thorugh a layoff or have reduced income.

So what about the house? The fact that you’ve both faced foreclosure at least twice, and have even refinanced twice since 2004, yet you have still wound up deep in debt and deeply underwater tells me that you can not truly afford this home. I assume you refinanced in recent years to take advantage of relatively low interest rates. But I also suspect that you took cash out of your home as well. I could be wrong. But that’s certainly what many people did during the heydey of the housing market. How was that money used? Did you pay off debt, set aside any savings, or do something else with it? I recognize, of course, that part of the reason your house is likely under water is because home prices have fallen greatly in many parts of the country. But the fact that you owe twice as much as your home is worth signals that something else was going on.

If I were you, I would investigage the prospects of a short sale or a deed in lieu of foreclosure. I don’t know where you live, but it’s highly doubtful that your home will “come back” in value anytime soon. Unfortunately, short sales and deeds in lieu of foreclosure do have negative ramifications for your credit. But these are short-term hits from which you can recover, if you’re prepared to move on and do the right thing financially in the future.

You asked about the loan you got while you were unemployed. I don’t know of any way to legally get this loand eliminated or removed from your credit reports. Just because someone loaned you money at a time when you weren’t working doesn’t make the loan a “predatory loan.” Unfortunately, scores of lenders all across the country did this — both reputable lenders and not-so-reputable ones. Honestly, I don’t know which camp your lender falls into.

Nevetheless, again, I want you to be willing to take responsibililty for your own actions, and not put the blame elsewhere. You stated to me that you knew you shouldn’t have applied for the loan in the first place but that you were “desperate.” Plus, the reason you applied for the loan was because you were in arrears on your mortgage. That’s certainly not the fault of the lender that gave you the $10,000 loan. So it’s not fair to now accuse them of “predatory” lending. Predatory loans are characterized by unreasonably high interest rates, abusive pre-payment penalties, or excessive loan fees including enormous commissions for lenders or mortgage brokers.

Don’t worry about paying off 5-year-old debts at this point. You’ve got enough on your plate to try to pay your current bills. And trust me: In the long run, you will be far better off if you take my advice and deal first with these issues before you attempt to pay off old debts or improve your credit rating in order to try to get another place to live.

Predatory Lending: Racial Profiling at its Worst (theroot.com)
Deducting Mortgage Interest FAQs (turbotax.intuit.com)

How do I establish my first FICO score?

Author: The Money Coach

Your FICO credit scores – like all credit scores – are based on the underlying data and information that is contained in your credit files with the “Big 3” credit bureaus: Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. According to Fair Isaac, the company that created the three-digit FICO scores (which range from 300 to 850 points), in order to have a FICO score generated for you, your credit history must contain at least three things:

•   a minimum of one credit account that has been open for six months or longer
•   at least one account that is “undisputed” and that has been reported to a credit bureau during the past six months
•   an absence of any notation in your credit files that you are “deceased” or that an account you are associated with belongs to a deceased person

Some Issues Are Out of Your Control

Note that if you recently began establishing a credit history, there could be delays in you being assigned a credit score. Additionally, there are several factors outside of your control that may impact your ability to have a credit score generated. For example, assume you opened a credit card account six months ago. You may not yet have a FICO credit score because it’s possible that the credit card company took two or three months to actually report your account to the credit bureaus.

Additionally, there’s a good chance that you will not have a credit score if you have ever been listed as a co-signer or authorized user on a credit report, and the person with whom you were a co-signer/authorized user has died. In such a case, that person’s credit history would note that they are deceased. Additionally, the account you shared with that person would also reflect that it belonged to a deceased individual, which could impact you.

What Exactly Is Perfect Credit? (askthemoneycoach.com)

How Can I Get Rid of My PayDay Loans

Author: The Money Coach

Q: What advice do you give to tackle payday loans? I Have Two at the Moment and I Can Not Afford to Pay Them Both at the Same Time. What Do You Suggest?

A: Unfortunately, millions of people get caught up in the cycle of payday loans each year — not realizing that many of these loans, when rolled over, carry annual interest rates of about 400%, making them nearly impossible to pay off. I’ve written extensively about the dangers of getting payday loans and alternatives to them. Read this post for some of my tips for raising cash when you’re in a financial pinch.

I also recommend taking a look at an excellent five-part series on payday loans, written in 2010 by a terrific financial reporter, Pallavi Gogoi, for DailyFinance.com, an Aol Money and Finance site. Gogoi examines the growth of payday loans, she explains why even federal regulators haven’t been able to protect the public from payday lenders, and offers some good advice for help and alternatives for people with payday loans. Read that series on payday loans, and it’s sure to be an eye-opener, as well as helpful to your specific predicament.

I Can’t Afford to Pay Off My Credit Card Debt. Can I Still Lower My Credit Utilization?

Author: The Money Coach

Q: I Can’t Afford to Pay Off My Credit Card Debt. Can I Still Lower My Credit Utilization?

A: To raise your credit scores, it’s always best to pay down debt, as opposed to shifting it around. However, for most people trying to boost their credit rating, it’s not always possible to instantly pay off all their credit card debt. So what can you do in that case? You can shift debt around in order to strategically lower your credit card utilization rate.

Remember that 30% of your FICO credit score is based on the amount of credit card debt you’re carrying versus the amount of credit card debt you have available (i.e. your credit utilization rate). For example, if you have $15,000 in available credit on all your cards, and you’ve charged $10,000 on those cards, you’ve used up two-thirds of your available credit and your credit utilization rate is 67% – not good.

What Is The “Ideal” Credit Utilization Rate

To increase your credit scores, it’s imperative that you slash your credit utilization ratios. No one knows the precise magic number when it comes to credit utilizations rates; FICO doesn’t reveal the exact “ideal” credit utilization rate. However, we do know that higher credit utilizations rates generally translate into lower FICO scores. And statistically speaking, those with lower credit utilization rates have higher FICO scores. Therefore, conventional wisdom is that it’s best to keep your credit utilization rates at a maximum or 25% to 35% for an optimal FICO score. If you maintain zero credit card debt, by paying off your credit card bills in full each month, realize that you may not have a 0% credit utilization rate simply because of three timing factors:

the date when you pay your bills,
the date when your creditor reports your payment history to the credit bureaus;
the date that your credit report is pulled to generate a credit score

Besides, you need not worry about having a 0% credit utilization rate simply because, believe it or not, individuals with a 0% credit utilization rate actually have lower credit scores – an average credit score of just 678, versus average credit scores of 745 for those with credit utilization rates ranging from 1% to 10%, according to data from CreditKarma.com, which analyzed a random sample of 70,000 credit scores.

How is it possible that those with a 0% credit utilization rate have average credit scores of only 678 points? CreditKarma.com suggests a few likely causes. First, it’s possible that individuals with a 0% credit utilization rate have no credit cards at all. This could actually hurt their credit rating, because remember that 10% of your credit score is based on the mix of credit that is contained in your credit files. Having a credit card, along with different forms of credit, shows that you can responsible manage various types of credit simultaneously. Another plausible reason for that 0% credit utilization rate is that those individuals never use their credit cards at all. (Another reason to use your credit cards on occasion, just to keep them active).

No Money … No Problem?

If you don’t have the money to pay down debt, here are the four chief strategies that you can use to lower your credit card utilization rates:

Use a Home Equity Loan

Getting a home equity loan or an equity line of credit can be a smart strategy for a few reasons. The interest rate on home equity loans (currently in the 6% range) is far less than what you’re probably paying on your credit cards (likely in the 15%-plus range). Additionally, the interest on home equity loans is tax deductible up to $100,000; the interest levied on your credit cards is not. Finally, from a credit-scoring standpoint, mortgage debt is treated more favorably than credit card debt, so converting that consumer debt is likely to positively impact your FICO score, by helping you reduce your credit card utilization rates.

A Strong Caution To Those Using Home Equity Loans to Pay Off Credit Card Debt

If you decide to consider this strategy, I have to issue a very serious word of caution: Don’t pay off those credit card bills, and put your home at risk with an equity loan if you’re just going to go back out and run up your charge cards again. The decision to take out a home equity loan is one that should not be made lightly. I believe that you should only use your home equity to pay off debt under two circumstances:

1) You got into credit card debt because of what I call “The Dreaded D’s: (downsizing, divorce, death (i.e. a main winner in the family died), disability, disease, or some other disaster, like a business failure or lawsuit); and

2) The situation that threw you into debt has now been rectified. (For instance, you were downsized, but now you have a job, or you faced a disease or a disability, but now you’ve bounced back from your medical problems).

If you got into debt for other reasons of your own doing, such as overspending, and if you haven’t learned how to get those impulses under control, I urge you to refrain from tapping the equity in your home to pay off credit card debt. I’ve heard heart-breaking stories of people who paid off their credit card debts by converting those obligations into mortgage debt – only to keep spending, not change their financial habits, and ultimately wind up losing their homes in foreclosure. I don’t want this to happen to you.

Shift Balances From One Card to Another Existing Card

Shifting debt from one credit card to another is more art than science, but done properly, it can boost your credit scores, and also save you lots of money (particularly if you’re taking debt from one high interest rate card and putting it on another lower interest rate card). The key here is to minimize the debt you’re carrying on a card that has a high credit utilization and transfer that debt onto a credit card with a zero balance or a low balance. For example, if you have two cards, and each has a $5,000 credit limit but one has a $3,000 in charges, and the other one only has $500, your current credit utilization rate is 35% ($3,500 divided by $10,000). You may be able to positively impact your credit scores, however, if you spread out some of that $3,000 in credit card debt from the first card. By shifting $1,000 of that balance onto the other card, your overall credit utilization rate will still be the same: 35%. However, the credit utilization rate for the first card will drop from 60% to 40%. Meanwhile, the second card will have a new credit utilization ratio of 30%.

Open A New Credit Card Account

Opening a new credit card account can lower your overall credit utilization ratio, even if you don’t charge anything additional on that new credit card. Yes, the inquiry will appear on your credit report, and you will likely take a hit to your credit as a result. But having that additional line of credit can make up for the ding you take from the inquiry. After all, your credit utilization ratio comprises 30% of your credit score, and inquiries only account for 10% of your score. Using the same example above, assume you have those two credit cards with a total of $10,000 in available credit, and $3,500 in charges made, for a current credit utilization rate of 35%. If you open a new credit card account with a $5,000 credit limit, now your overall credit utilization rate drops to just 23% because you’ve charged $3,500 and you have a grand total of $15,000 in available credit.

Secure an Increase in Your Existing Credit Card Line(s)

A fourth and final strategy to bolster your credit utilization rate is to simply ask your existing creditors for an increase in your credit lines. The principle behind this is the same as opening a new credit account. Essentially it boils down to you having more available credit in order to improve your standing in the eyes of the credit scoring world. Amid the credit crunch, it’s likely that your current creditors may do a “hard” pull of your credit reports. Or perhaps they won’t if they’ve already been reviewing and monitoring your credit files – as many of them routinely do. You’ll never know until you call and ask for a credit line increase. In the process of doing so, you can flat-out ask the customer service representative if it’s necessary for them to pull your credit record. That way you’ll know whether or not an inquiry will be generated, and if it’s worth it for you to use this strategy.

Before you try this option, some more research from CreditKarma.com is worth examining. CreditKarma.com wanted to see whether there was a correlation between people’s credit scores and the credit limits set by banks and other credit card issuers. And sure enough, there is. Credit Karma samples more than 500,000 credit card accounts in June 2009, and compared average user credit limits with their credit scores. The results showed that across all credit score ranges – from bad credit to great credit – consumers with higher credit scores had higher credit limits.

Credit Scores and Credit Card Limits

601 to 620

For example, those with credit scores ranging from 601 to 620 had an average credit limit of $1,765.

661 to 680

Individuals with credit scores ranging from 661 to 680 had an average credit card limit of $3,305.

701 to 720

Those with scores ranging from 701-720 had average an average credit limit of $5,449.

761 to 780

Meanwhile, those with credit scores from 761-780 had an average credit limit of $7,464.

801 and higher

And those with credit scores of 801 and higher had an average credit limit of $12,175.

What’s more Credit Karma found striking differences among the average credit card limits set by various companies. Credit Karma said that based on its data of the top 5 credit card issuers, Bank of America had the highest average credit card limit at $11,288, while Capital One had the lowest average credit limit at $3,524.

What Exactly Is Perfect Credit? (askthemoneycoach.com)

Ask The Money Coach

Posts Tagged ‘credit’

I owe more than my house is worth and I have bad credit. What should I do?

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I owe more than my house is worth and I have bad credit. What should I do?

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