Posts Tagged ‘credit cards’

Will a Collection Account for Just $50 Hurt My Credit?

Fortunately, there is one recent change to the world of credit scoring concerning small debts, which are sometimes called “nuisance” collection accounts. In August 2009, Fair Isaac rolled out to all three credit bureaus its newest general-purpose FICO score, dubbed FICO 08. With this new version of the credit score, FICO says its will disregard collection accounts and other dings on your credit file when the original balance owed was under $100.

“The logic there,” says FICO’s Tom Quinn, “is that for small dollar amounts, like a collection notice from a public library system, the (credit scoring) model will now bypass those and not consider those to be negative. Any kind of derogatory public information that’s less than $100” will be excluded, Quinn adds. This certainly has the potential to help boost your FICO score if it was impacted by such a blemish. But beware: amid the credit crunch, every single account you have, and every single financial transaction you engage in is being analyzed to determine your credit worthiness.

All Transactions – Large and Small – Matter Greatly Amid the Credit Crunch

Also, even with FICO saying it won’t use those small accounts in its scoring methodology, the debts nonetheless remain on your credit file, and some lenders may require that you resolve those issues or pay off those debts before approving you for a loan.  More importantly, you should known that every transaction – large and small – matters greatly amid the current credit crunch. And when I say “every” transaction, I mean it.

Your Financial Habits Are Under Intense Scrutiny, Even if You Don’t Know It

Increasingly, retailers, credit reporting agencies, credit scoring companies, and of course banks and other lenders are watching every financial transaction you make. Made an online purchase to buy some shoes lately? Somebody tracked it. That’s why the next time you’re working at your computer – or simply surfing the web – you’ll see a pop-up or some advertisement featuring shoes. Ditto for school supplies, furniture, electronic gadgets, or anything else you purchase. But the scrutiny goes way beyond just watching what you buy, and then trying to sell you more of it. Retailers, lenders and credit-scoring firms are all capturing a wealth of data about your financial habits, both on and offline, in an effort to tell them who among us is the most credit-worthy – and who is the least.

You May Be Deemed “Risky” Based on What You Buy and Where You Shop

So what exactly are they watching? In a word: everything. They’re looking to see whether you accept credit card offers, online, in the mail or via telephone. They’re gauging whether or not you’re likely to take a balance transfer offer for the initial low interest rate – only to toss the card when the offer expires, or when a better deal comes along. They’re looking at the types of stores you frequent, and whether you spend money (that is, use your credit cards) at “risky” establishments, like bars, clubs and casinos.

They’re also poring over all manner of data regarding your housing, and that includes both renters and homeowners. For those of you who rent, they’re looking at whether you’ve consistently paid your rent or time, whether you’ve been delinquent, and whether you’ve ever been evicted. For homeowners, they’re looking at how much overall debt you have, whether or not your mortgage is a fixed-rate or adjustable loan, whether or not you have a home equity loan or line of credit, and if so, how much you typically tap and how often. If it seems as if the credit industry has got a spotlight on you, it’s because they do. But you don’t have to be blinded by it – or blind-sided – if you manage your financial affairs properly.

Your Credit Report is Constantly Being Updated

Again, when I say that every transaction counts, let me make something clear: I’m not just referring to business transactions that involve loans. Every transaction means just that – every economic exchange you make, every credit, loan or contract agreement you enter into, and every financial move of yours that can be documented – all of it matters greatly. Every single transaction counts. Do you think that your dealings with cell phone companies, water end electric services, and public utilities aren’t being monitored? Think again. About 100,000 organizations supply information to the credit reporting agencies.

These organizations include banks, lenders, collection agencies, credit card companies, leasing firms, utility companies and any other entity that extends credit or reports information about you. Even libraries have been known to rat on delinquent patrons to the credit bureaus for having an overdue library book! The same pattern holds true for various municipalities around the country; places like Chicago and New York City will report you to collection agencies in a hot minute to for failing to pay parking tickets or moving violations. And as cash-strapped cities try to cope with budget shortfalls and a tough economy, you don’t have to be Nostradamus to predict that many more cities will soon start using collection agents to pursue “small” debts due from local citizens.

The Convergence of the Credit Crunch, Technology and Big Brother Means You Must Be Careful Even With Small, Overdue Bills

Thus, transactions large and small take on greater importance amid the credit crunch because, in many ways, Big Brother isn’t merely looking over your shoulder these days. Big Brother now seems to be peeking into your laptop, using a skycam to watch where you go, accessing your Blackberry or iPhone, and placing wiretaps on your home and business phones too. OK, so maybe it’s not that bad. But you get my point. An incredible amount of information about your finances and money patterns is being captured, analyzed, and dissected in ways you probably never imagined. I predict that in the future, this trend will greatly increase – even for small bills.

Simple, little transactions that you may regard as minor or even big bills that you are disputing can all wind up having serious ramifications for your credit rating. That magazine subscription you ordered (even if it was just part of a sales promotion) can come back to haunt you if the $14.95 bill isn’t paid. Those music videos you’ve neglected to return (since forever) could land you on someone’s collection list. And even that hospital co-payment or medical debt that you’ve been sent a bill for yet again – for the umpteenth time after your insurer refused to pay – that too could ultimately damage your credit rating if left unattended.


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How did Lynnette Khalfani-Cox erase $100,000 in debt in 3 years?

In my book, Zero Debt, I explain how I got into debt (mainly via overspending), and also what it took to get me out of debt. To pay off my credit card bills, I used the exact same strategies I outlined in my book – getting a budget together, cutting back on frivolous spending (like vacations & dinners out), refinancing my auto loan, negotiating with my creditors for lower interest rates, doubling and tripling up on the minimum payments I was making, and using “windfalls” or “extra” money, like income tax checks and year-end bonuses from my job to pay off debt, etc.

Making Tough Choices

I also made some tough choices, like taking my two older kids out of private school and putting them in a less expensive private school. (They’re actually now in public school, and doing just great). After nearly 3 years of all this, I’d paid off $70,000 in credit card debt. Then in early 2004, my ex-husband and I sold some land we owned and used $30,000 to pay off the last $30,000 of credit card debt we owed.

In your question, you mentioned joining a debt management plan and taking on a second job. I know those were tough steps for you to take. But congratulations for doing so, because they will definitely help you become debt free faster. Lastly, I don’t know if you have a copy of Zero Debt. (The original version came out in late 2004; the updated, second edition of the book came out in 2009). In any event, in Day 25/Chapter 25 of Zero Debt, I also explained three different debt pay-off strategies that you can use to knock out credit card debt. (In my case, I used Strategy #2). Good luck in eliminating those credit card bills!

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What Credit Card Should I Get to Help Build My FICO Credit Score?

Q: I Became Debt Free This Month. I Have $4,000 Saved and No Bank Account. Where Should I Go? Also What Credit Card Should I Get to Help Build My FICO Credit Score?

A: Congratulations on eliminating your debt. You should be proud of that accomplishment – and of saving $4,000. As of early 2010, Capital One is offering an attractive savings account that you should investigate. It’s the InterestPlus Online Savings Account. For those who keep $2,500 in the account, It pays a very competitive Annual Percentage Yield and it gives you the opportunity to earn a 10% quarterly bonus. Get more information online at http://www.CapitalOne.com/DirectBanking.

To find a good credit card, also take advantage of the power of the Internet. Go to http://www.CardRatings.com to find a competitive credit card that fits your needs. There are all different types of cards: for students, frequent travelers, people with excellent credit, those with bad credit, etc. The “best” credit card is the one that suits your spending habits and financial profile. Only you know how often you will use the card. No matter what card you choose, only charge what is absolutely necessary and what you can reasonable pay off quickly – ideally every month. This will be the single best thing you can do to boost your FICO credit scores.


What’s Your Credit Score?

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How do I establish my first FICO score?

Your FICO credit scores – like all credit scores – are based on the underlying data and information that is contained in your credit files with the “Big 3” credit bureaus: Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. According to Fair Isaac, the company that created the three-digit FICO scores (which range from 300 to 850 points), in order to have a FICO score generated for you, your credit history must contain at least three things:

•    a minimum of one credit account that has been open for six months or longer
•    at least one account that is “undisputed” and that has been reported to a credit bureau during the past six months
•    an absence of any notation in your credit files that you are “deceased” or that an account you are associated with belongs to a deceased person

Some Issues Are Out of Your Control

Note that if you recently began establishing a credit history, there could be delays in you being assigned a credit score. Additionally, there are several factors outside of your control that may impact your ability to have a credit score generated. For example, assume you opened a credit card account six months ago. You may not yet have a FICO credit score because it’s possible that the credit card company took two or three months to actually report your account to the credit bureaus.

Additionally, there’s a good chance that you will not have a credit score if you have ever been listed as a co-signer or authorized user on a credit report, and the person with whom you were a co-signer/authorized user has died. In such a case, that person’s credit history would note that they are deceased. Additionally, the account you shared with that person would also reflect that it belonged to a deceased individual, which could impact you.

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6 Guidelines to Help You Maximize Your Credit Score

Anyone living in today’s society knows that it can be a drag to be turned down for credit. It’s no fun when your application for a car loan, a student loan, a mortgage, or even just a credit card is denied.

Learn how to boost your credit standing by knowing the ins and outs of how your score is determined by Fair Isaac Corp., the company that calculates your FICO credit score.

Here are 6 guidelines to help you maximize your credit score:

1. Pay Your Bills on Time
Since the single-biggest component (35%) of your credit score is based on your payment track record, the best way to boost your credit score is to simply pay your bills on time. Not some of them; all of them. Even if you can only make minimum payments, that’s better than being late with a bill because late payments of 30 days or longer can drop your FICO score by 50 points or more.

2. Don’t Max Out Your Credit Cards
Some people mistakenly think that simply paying their bills on time each month will give them a stellar credit rating, but that’s not true. Your FICO score also considers how much credit you use on a regular basis.

Having a lot of debt signals that you are a potential risk for getting into financial trouble and not paying bills on time. If your credit cards are at or near their limits, you can raise your credit score by knocking down your balances.

In general, try to keep your balances to no more than 25% of your available credit limit. For instance, if you have a card with a $10,000 credit line, make sure you don’t carry a balance of more than $2,500 on that card. If you can pay off your credit cards each month, that’s even better. But if you can’t, it’s better to spread out debt over a few cards, to maintain lower balances, rather than max out any one card.

3. Get financial help with debt
Having lots of credit card debt lowers your credit score. So if you’re struggling to pay off debt or are living paycheck to paycheck, consider getting help from a trustworthy credit counseling agency.

One reputable resource is the National Foundation for Debt Management, a non-profit agency that negotiates with creditors, gets your interest rates lowered, and creates a plan to quickly get you out of debt.

For speedy help, contact NFDM at: http://enroll.nfdm.org/ or call them toll-free at 866-409-6336, and a HUD-approved credit counselor from NFDM will get back to you within 24-48 hours for a free, no-obligation assessment of your situation.

4. Keep Older, Established Accounts Open
It feels good to pay off a credit card and finally get that statement showing a zero balance. However, if you pay off a creditor, don’t make the mistake of closing that account because 15% of your FICO score is based on the length of your credit history. The longer a credit history you have, the better it is for your score.

5. Avoid “Bad” Forms of Credit
You’ve probably walked into a department store and been offered 10% off, or some other discount, just for opening up a credit card with that retailer, right? Did you take the bait? If so, realize that you might have hurt your credit score. Here’s why:

The FICO scoring model rates some forms of credit more favorably than others. For instance, the presence of a mortgage on your credit report will help your score, but too many consumer finance cards (i.e., the cards issued by department stores and retailers) can hurt it. For this reason, do yourself a favor and say “No” to those credit card offers from stores you patronize. Just use a major credit card, such as a Visa, MasterCard, American Express, or Discover Card, if you need to use credit to make your purchases.

6. Only Apply for Credit When You Truly Need It
Just because you get a pre-approved offer in the mail, or some telemarketer calls you to solicit for a credit card, doesn’t mean you should accept it.

You should only seek out credit when you absolutely need it because taking on too much new credit – or even just applying for it – will lower your credit score. Each time you apply for a loan, whether it is a credit card, an auto loan, a mortgage, or a student loan, the lender pulls your credit report and generates an “inquiry” on your credit file. That inquiry remains there for two years. One inquiry can drop your score as much as 35 points.

Also, beware that you may sometimes generate an inquiry without even knowing it! That happened to me, when I recently rented a car with Avis, using my debit card. Rental car companies frequently run your credit report if you use a debit card instead of a credit card. That single inquiry lowered my FICO score by 16 points.

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All information on this blog is for educational purposes only.  

Lynnette Khalfani-Cox, The Money Coach, is not a certified financial planner, registered investment adviser, or attorney.

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